Running in East Timor

Last week I went on my first run in East Timor! I was a little anxious to get out, but I am glad I did. It was a great experience. Below is an excerpt from my journal documenting my first run.

One of the scenes from my run

I headed out the back driveway of the school around 8:30 a.m., not really sure of a route, just wanting to get out and explore. Soon I hit a fork in the road-down one road I saw 2 men walking toward me-I chose the other road. This road took me out by the other convent and lead me into the “town” of Venilale. I didn’t realize Fridays are school and street clean up days for all the students in Venilale. I was a little embarrassed to run by all of them, so I stopped and walked.  I ended up walking for a good 10 minutes flanked by school children on either side of the road who were pulling weeds and sweeping and picking up trash. Everyone stopped and stared as I passed by, and many offered a cheery, “Bondia!” (Good morning!). Several people asked me where I was going, and I didn’t know how to say I was just exercising. I don’t think these people “just exercise.” They are either work hard or playing soccer games or tag. There is no “exercise.” They don’t really need it. They stay active enough around the house and playing with their friends. Sr. Johana later told me I could just say, “Pasear”, a nice stroll.

Soon I came to the ”Bemvindo ba Venilale” sign. From here there are 3 possible routes you can take. The very steep uphill route straight ahead was the road Sr. Menia and I had taken the week before on our walk to the oratory. The road to the left was downhill and the road to the right looked pretty flat. I knew a nice flat road would be my best bet since I was pretty out of shape from not having run in almost a month, so I chose the route to the right.

I was a little anxious to start running, both because I knew I was out of shape and because I have never really liked people watching me as I run. When you are in a race, most people are cheering for their own family member or teammates, and they aren’t really focused on you. But when you are in a foreign country where running for exercise is almost unheard of, people are bound to stare. Once I finally started running though, I felt better about it. Maybe I did look ridiculous, but I can only get better from here. I already stand out because I am a “malae” (foreigner), so I don’t think anyone is too concerned with HOW I look while I am running. These people are just so curious and interested in seeing a malae out exercising! As I started running I “got into the running groove” and was reminded why I like it so much. It is challenging, but every minute you run is like a mini victory. YES, I did it! I can do another minute! Etc…

To my dismay, I quickly discovered that this route was actually primarily downhill, too. Therefore, as you might imagine, I was able to easily run 10 minutes without feeling tired or out of breath. The scenery along this road was beautiful! There were trees and huts lining the road, but I could see fields beyond that and tall, majestic mountains in the distance. Many young children and mothers were working in and around their huts, and they all would stop and stare as I passed by. Many greeted me with a  Bondia, but some younger children shouted out, “Malae! Malae!” (foreigner). I still don’t know if this is a friendly greeting or a way of making fun of me, but I generally answer back with a friendly “Bondia!” Some of the kids seem so amazed that the “malae” acknowledges them. When I say hello back sometimes they jump up and down or laugh. Some even came up to give me high fives. 

It was difficult to really take in the scenery because the road was so bumpy and uneven. Cars here drive on the left side of the road, so I figured I should run on the right. When I saw other people on the streets though, they were walking on the smoothest, most even part of the road (generally the middle). That seemed like a good strategy, so I followed suit.  I heard a car slowly coming up from behind me but didn’t think much of it. It definitely had enough room to go around me. As the vehicle passed me I saw that it was actually a microlet bus. It honked as it drove by, startling me. I jumped a little bit and almost ran off the road! I forgot that cars here honk for any number of reasons-they may honk to signal for you to get out of the way, as a friendly greeting, or to warn others they are coming around a sharp bend. I assumed it was honking as a friendly greeting.

Soon I turned around and headed back to school. The uphill return journey was much more difficult than I had anticipated! The good news was that it was much easier to answer the “Where are you going?” question on the way back. I would tell them “Eskola”, and they would nod back knowingly. As I passed one house, a mom holding her youngest child stood in her doorway with her other 3 kids and clapped and cheered for me! It was so nice! Although exercising with so many people watching was a little nerve wracking, it was also motivating. I had decided on the way back uphill that I would alternate between running for a minute and walking for a minute. However, if at the end of that minute I was passing by a house with people staring at me, I couldn’t just STOP right in front of them-I had to keep going!

As I ran by the school kids lining the road on the way back, they all stopped working and clapped and cheered for me, too! It was like I was running a race, but I was the only runner (so I knew all the applause was for me!) It was really nice, but I still felt very awkward. What were these kids really thinking? I tried to stay confident and meet their glances with “Bondia!” A lot of them cheered and laughed as I ran by. I knew they probably weren’t laughing AT me, they were probably laughing at the situation.  These moments are awkward for me, but I think they also help me to develop self-confidence. No, they are not laughing at me, and even if they are, SO WHAT? I am not going to let it interfere with my exercise routine. I am doing something healthy and hopefully setting an example for them. I don’t need to be ashamed or embarrassed by that.

So overall my first run was good! I exercised for 45 minutes total, running 20 minutes. I was sweaty and thirsty when I got back, but am looking forward to doing it again tomorrow (hopefully there won’t be as many spectators, but hey, if I can face all those school kids, surely I can face other people I will pass along the way!